1871-CC $20.00 NGC AU50

The 1871-CC is the second rarest double eagle from this mint. Given the fact that all but a few collectors will ever purchase an 1870-CC, this date is, therefore, the most significant expenditure that they will make for their CC double eagle set. Nearly all of the 1871-CC double eagles that I've seen for the last five+ years, no matter if they were graded by NGC or PCGS, have been characterized by unoriginality and poor quality surfaces. This example is a notable exception. It is choice and totally original with lovely deep, natural orange-gold color that becomes a bit more intense at the borders. The surfaces are wonderfully clean and this is an exception for this issue as most 1871-CC double eagles have extensive marks. The strike is sharp and even and the overall level of eye appeal males this among the more aesthetically appealing examples of this rare date that I have seen in many years. I recently saw an NGC AU53 example trade wholesale for $36,000 which I thought wasn't remotely as nice as this piece. If you have been hunting for a great 1871-CC double eagle, this is a coin that you should give strong consideration to.

1883-CC $20.00 NGC AU58

There are only a handful of dates from this mint that show the eye appeal of a nice 1883-CC $20 and this examples has an abundance of good looks. It is nearly fully lustrous with very frosty surfaces covered with lovely rose and yellow-gold color. There are some minor scuffs in the left obverse field and the slightest amount of rub on the obverse high spots; the reverse is Uncirculated and approaches the choice level. A perfect type coin for the collector who would like to own a single high quality but affordable CC double eagle.

1870-S $20.00 PCGS AU58 CAC

This extremely high end example almost certainly never entered circulation but has a tiny amount of friction on the high spots from shipment in a bag. It displays lovely rose-gold and light green colors on the obverse and reverse and the surfaces are extremely clean with just a few light scuffs. The luster is hard and frosty while the strike is as sharp as I can recall having seen for this date. The 1870-S is not a scarce issue in circulated grades but "Gem Sliders" like this are extremely hard to find. This date becomes rare in Uncirculated and it is almost impossible to find above MS60/61. Trends jumps to $9,500 in MS60, making a high end AU58 at less than half the price seem to be especially good value. This is one of three examples in AU58 approved by CAC; none graded higher have received a CAC sticker.

1855 $20.00 NGC AU55 CAC

Choice and original with abundant soft, satiny luster present below medium natural green-gold color. Unlike most 1855 double eagles, this piece lacks deep, detracting abrasions and there are just a few scattered scuffs in the obverse fields. The 1855 is scarce in all grades and it becomes very scarce in the higher AU range. Trends jumps to $10,500 in MS60 for this date and even if you can find an example in the lower Uncirculated grades (and this is not likely) you are going to have to write a five-figure check. For most collectors, this example will fit nicely into their Type One set.

1856 $20.00 NGC AU53 CAC

After years of telling collectors that the Philadelphia Type One issues from 1853 to 1859 were the best values in the affordable Liberty Head double eagle arena, interest (and price levels) has started to finally increase for these issues. Despite this fact, dates like the 1856 remain outstanding values in nearly all circulated grades. This example has the luster and body of an AU55/AU55+ coin but it has been net-graded to the AU53 level due to the presence of scattered abrasions in the fields and some reeding marks located on Liberty's cheekbone. The coin still has very nice overall eye appeal with nice natural yellow-gold and pale greenish hues. Really a scarce coin this grade and hard to find choicer.

1856 $20.00 PCGS EF45

The 1856 is one of my favorite sleeper Type One double eagles. In the EF grades, it sells for virtually no premium over a common date like the 1861 yet it is dozens of times more scarcer. This is a pleasing, wholesome example with nice even light green-gold color atop lightly abraded surfaces that retain some luster. There are two tiny reeding marks in the lower left obverse field that do not detract. A great value for the savvy double eagle collector on a limited budget.

Ten Tips For Selling Your Coins

As someone who sells a lot of coins, I have some selling tips/tricks/thoughts that I'd like to share. 1. Don't Get Into a Forced Sale Situation. When it comes to buying coins, most people (dealers and collectors) are sharks. If they know that you are in a situation of desperation, it is likely that they'll take advantage of you. The worst thing that you can do as a seller is to tell someone--even someone that you have a "close" relationship with--that you have to sell a coin and that you need a fair offer. In my experience, a forced sale can cost you 20-30% or more.

Ideally, you want a sale of an individual coin (or collection) to take at least 45-60 days; possibly more for an in-depth specialized collection. That will give you enough time to prepare the coin for sale, market it, and give the buyer time to pay if this becomes a factor.

2. Pick the Right Time to Sell. Although the internet is blurring the traditional coin seasons, the two best times of the year to sell your coins are still around the FUN show in January and at the summer ANA in July or August.

This holds true for selling a coin yourself, on consignment, or through auction. You are likely to do better when people are in the mood to buy coins; not when they are preoccupied with summer vacation or preparing for the Winter holidays.

3. Send Your Coins to CAC. I don't subscribe to the theory that you "have to" buy CAC coins and nothing else. If you are a savvy, educated buyer you should be able to discern what is nice and what isn't within your specialty.

But when you are selling I think it does make a difference to have a CAC sticker on your coin(s). I think the best thing about CAC is that it instills confidence in buyers and makes a coin more liquid. I certainly notice that CAC coins at auction tend to sell for more money than non-CAC, and appear to sell to retail buyers/end-users more often than non-CAC coins.

4. Strike While the Iron is Hot. Let's say you read about an auction that contains some great Liberty Head eagles that bring very strong prices. You own similar coins. Should you turn around and sell as soon as possible?

Yes and no. Sometimes you get lucky and can find the underbidder who just missed out on a record-setting coin. But more often than not he was an underbidder who might not feel so good about the level he was at a second time. As a seller, replicating an all-time record price can prove difficult. But it might be worth an effort to at least experiment, no?

5. Clean Your Slabs. This sounds silly, but dirty, scratchy slabs can cost you money. Let me give you an example.

About a year ago I saw an interesting gold at an auction. Well I sort of saw it; the holder was so scratched up you literally couldn't see the surfaces of the coin. I took a chance and bought it, mainly because it sold so cheaply, then sent it to a grading service to be re-holdered. Lo and behold, it was actually very nice. It later got a CAC sticker and I sold it for a good profit; all because it looked great in its new holder.

6. Leave Your Old Holder Coins in Old Holders (sometimes). OK, I'll be the first to get up in front of the group and admit that I'm an Old Holder-aholic. I get excited by coins in older PCGS and NGC slabs and tend to overpay for them; as do most dealers. But for a seller there's a catch to this, which is why I put the "sometimes" after the statement.

If you have a $2,000 old holder coin that has the potential to be a $4,000 coin if it upgrades, leave it alone, and price it accordingly. Let the buyer take the gamble. But if you have a $2,000 old coin coin that could be worth $10,000 if it has a good upgrade....hmmm, that might necessitate regrading the coin yourself.

7. Attribute Your Coin(s). Its probably not going to happen to you, but what if the lowly 1794 Cent you just sold to another collector across town turned out to be a $35,000 rare variety? That's going to make you feel just great, right?

Take a few minutes and attribute your coins. If you don't know how, send them to NGC's attribution service or have a trusted collector friend do it for you.

8. Have an Emergency Plan. Life is full of unexpected turns. Have you fully planned what would happen to your coins if you were to suddenly die or become incapacitated? You obviously don't want your wife walking into the local pawn shop and getting taken advantage of. Make it easy for her or your heirs and leave explicit instructions on how to dispose of your coins.

True story: a few years ago, a good client of mine passed away without a will and without leaving instructions on how to dispose of his coins. He was a secretive guy so I'm assuming the invoices for his coins weren't around and he peeled my inventory stickers off the back of the slabs which indicated what he paid. The coins were left to his sister who proceeded to take them to a "road buyer" at a local hotel. I would have paid close to a million dollars for the coins if she had called me. I'm told the road buyers paid her somewhat less than $200,000.

9. Do Your Due Diligence When it Comes to Pricing. Depending on the types of coins that you are selling, it should be possible to price your coins. But there are important things to consider.

In certain series, PCGS coins sell for premiums over NGC coins. Are your coins worth a premium? Is your coin approved by CAC and, if so, does this make a difference? Do you own a coin that's currently "hot?" Is your coin high end for the grade?

Common issues and generics are easy to price. Rare coins and very rare coins can be very difficult. Examine recent auction records. Are they consistent or all over the place? Has there been a comparable coin that has sold at auction in the last year?

If you have an extremely rare coin, it is probably best to put it in auction. But specialist dealers can be a great resource for selling rarities as well and they may be able to help you maximize the prices you get.

10. Leave a Little Bit on the Table for Everyone. Piggy sellers. Everyone knows them, and no one likes them. I'm talking about sellers who want to squeeze every last dime out of every transaction and make each sale an ordeal.

When I sell coins to other dealers I intentionally try to leave a little room so that they can make money on what they've just bought. This makes them happy and it makes them want to buy more coins from me in the future.

When I buy from collectors I try to be extra-fair and pay the most that I can while still leaving some room for myself to mark-up the coin up and resell it.

Do you have any tips for selling coins? If so, I'd love to know what they are and for you to share them with me. Please add them at the end of this blog or email them to me at dwn@ont.com.

1890-CC $20.00 NGC AU55 CAC

The obverse is just a bit on the reflective side with some hints of PL surface in the fields; the reverse is a bit more satiny. Both sides show nice light rose color and are very clean for the date and grade. This piece is so well-made and so free of obvious abrasions that it would make a perfect piece for the type collector or the new CC double eagle buyer who wants a choice, appealing frosty example for a reasonable price.

1883-CC $20.00 NGC AU50 CAC

This appealing, original example shows medium green-gold color that deepens at the borders. There are no serious marks noted and a good deal of luster remains. This is among the more common CC double eagles but it is never easy to find examples that are as choice and original as this one.