If I Collected Coins What Would I Collect?

I often (OK, not “often” but at least “occasionally...”) get asked the question “what kind of coins do you collect?” I don’t currently collect coins because I think that, as a dealer, being a collector is an inherent conflict; I don’t ever want to have an internal debate with myself about whether or not I should sell a coin that I buy. But I do have a pretty good idea about what I would collect if I were actually collecting. When I was younger and not yet a full-time dealer, my first love was Colonial coinage. I specialized in Connecticut coinage and specifically collected 1787 Draped Bust Left coppers. In retrospect, this was pretty ambitious for a ten year old kid. There are something like 350 varieties of 1787 DBL coppers and not only was I collecting them by variety, I was typically doing it without a reference guide as I had memorized many of the important varieties.

Connecticut coppers appealed to me for a number of reasons. First off, they were cheap. My budget was pretty small back in the day and for $25 to $75 per coin, I could buy very presentable examples (the kind of coins that are worth $500 or so each today). Secondly, the age and history of these coins appealed to me. I was always a history buff and the Colonial era was of particular interest to me. Thirdly, I grew up in New York City and there were some friendly, knowledgeable dealers in the area such as Richard Picker, David Sonderman, Bob Vlack and Jim King. The fact that the coins were readily available for trustworthy local sources appealed to me. Finally, I liked the crudeness of the designs and the complexity of the series.

After my Connecticut obsession, I moved onto Liberty Seated quarters. I chose this series for one really glaring reason: the coins seemed hugely undervalued to me. Obviously, I couldn’t afford Gem coins, so I tended to focus on choice, original pieces in the Fine to Extremely Fine range. I never did finish the set (I could never afford the rare Carson City issues from 1870 to 1873) but I was able to buy some pretty awesome coins at what seemed like pretty reasonable prices.

So, using my experiences from the collecting days of yore, how would they apply to the market of today? To answer the “what would I collect” question let me start by deducing what I wouldn’t collect. I know that I would avoid coins made during the 20th century. For whatever reason, 20th century coins have just never really appealed to me (with the exception of Saints but that is a set that I could never afford to collect in the way that I want to). I am pretty sure that I would also avoid collecting Proof coins. I like very low mintage Proofs struck prior to 1880 but, for the most part, I like coins that were made to circulate. In the same vein, I think I would focus on coins that were in lightly circulated grades as opposed to high end Uncirculated coins. I like a Gem coin as much as the next guy but there is something about an evenly worn, dirty EF45 to AU55 coin that really appeals to me. I know I would also focus on an era of history that was appealing to me. I also know that after all these years of focusing on gold coins, I’m going to have a pretty hard time not specializing in some sort of gold coinage.

So, at this point we are looking at business strike gold coins from the 19th century in circulated grades as the parameter of WWDC (What Would Doug Collect). For a variety of reasons, I have always been partial to coins struck prior to the Civil War, especially those produced from 1834 through the mid-to-late 1840’s. I don’t really have any preferences as to coin size, so I wouldn’t naturally be attracted to quarter eagles as opposed to half eagles or eagles. I know you are assuming that I’d select branch mint coins over Philadelphia and this is probably true although I do find the Philadelphia coins from this era to be very interesting and a really good value.

As someone who has long been an advocate of specializing and having a fairly narrow focus for a collection I’m going to actually listen to myself. I would also want to choose a series that doesn’t have any very expensive coins that I know I could never buy. I’d want coins that were scarce to rare but not impossible to find. And I’d want to be in a series where the coins were actually decent looking.

Given all of these parameters, I think that I would be a collector of No Motto New Orleans half eagles and eagles. I would want to collect both denominations and I’d try to have choice, original EF and AU coins that were evenly matched.

But I think I would also have a secondary, “cheap coin” collection as well. There would be points in time when I might not have the money for a good New Orleans gold coin or couldn’t find anything but I still had an itchy trigger finger and wanted to buy something. During these times, I’d focus on Liberty Seated half dollars (both Philadelphia and New Orleans) from the 1839-1852 era in EF and AU grades (with the occasional MS62 or MS63 thrown in for good measure).

To those of you who actually do collect New Orleans half eagles and eagles: don’t worry, I’m not going to suddenly become your competitor. But if these are your series of choice, give yourself a pat on the back and smugly tell yourself that you’ve made a choice that meets with my total approval!

How To "Brand" Your Coin Collection

You’re a serious coin collector. You’ve done all the “right” things. You’ve learned how to grade. You’ve become a knowledgeable specialist. You’ve worked exclusively with one or two exceptional dealers. Your collection is well on the way to being complete but you aren’t ready to sell it. What can you do in the interim to add value to it? I would suggest that proper “branding” of your collection might be the single smartest thing you can do once you’ve learned the right ways to assemble said set.

The American Marketing Association defines a brand as “a name, term, sign, symbol or design or a combination of them intended to identify the goods and services of one seller or group of sellers to differentiate them from those of other sellers.”

Brands play a huge role in our lives whether we choose to admit it or not. You don’t tend to buy a pair of sneakers because of their style or their supposed level of performance; you buy them because you are a Nike person or an Adidas person and you choose to display this symbol to other people; whether to seem “cool” or “informed” or for whatever other reason(s) motivate you. In the case of Nike, you might buy a pair because LeBron James endorses them. What if this was the case with coins?

A small but select group of collectors have figured out that branding, in the era of the Internet, is a way to add considerable prestige and value to their collection. What do I mean by this? Think of certain areas in the numismatic market and certain specific collectors come to mind. Lincoln Cents? Stewart Blay is the Man. Bust Half Dollars? That’s Dale Friend’s Domain. Saints? Steve Duckor is the King.

These three collectors have a number of things in common. First and foremost, they are true “collectors” in the best sense of the word. They are not guys who have barged into the numismatic arena like the proverbial 800 pound gorilla, recklessly bought and then exploded like a supernova with their remains soon consigned to a major auction. No, these are three guys who have been in their respective markets for a long, long time. In most cases, they are specialists who have maintained a fairly narrow focus which has, in turn, allowed them to be formidable buyers. They all know their strengths and limitations and they all have a trusted advisor (or two) to help them make important decisions.

What impresses me most about all three of these collectors are they ways that have branded their collections. I’m not certain that any of them sat down years ago and outlined a cunning master plan to do this; what I think has happened is that all are recognized as good guys and dealers who have clout when it comes to branding have been happy to help them. Plus it hasn’t hurt any of them that they own some really, really nice coins.

Before I discuss some of my own ideas about how to brand a collection, let me state that numismatic branding only works if you’ve got a product that merits branding. If you have a complete set of Saints and the coins aren’t very nice, it really doesn’t matter how well they are branded; they are still a schlocky set of Saints. It also matters what sort of coins you are attempting to brand. It’s still easier to brand the third or fourth finest set of Dahlonega gold coins than the best set of Sacagawea dollars.

So, here are a few ideas of how to brand your collection.

1. Become identified as an expert within your particular field. Even though Messrs. Blay, Friend and Duckor have never written a book on their respective fields, they are recognized as experts. Remember the old TV commercial that said “when E.F. Hutton talks, people listen?” Well, when Stewart Blay talks about Lincoln Cents or when Dale Friend talks about Bust Halves, their fellow collectors pay attention. These guys have put their money where their mouths are and ponied up for some incredible coins at auction or on the bourse floor. None of these guys have made a big deal about becoming an expert but, in their own quiet ways, their opinions have become extremely important in their respective fields.

Something that none of these collectors has done (yet) that I might suggest: either write the definitive book on their field of expertise or work with a knowledgeable dealer/researcher. Not that Blay, Friend or Duckor’s coins need any help but if they were the plate coins for the new standard references on Lincoln Cents or Barber half dollars or Saints this would add even greater mystique to them, in my opinion.

2. Selectively display your collection (but maintain an aura of mystery...) One of the smartest things that Stewart Blay and Dale Friend have done is to display their collection, through the auspices of the PCGS Collector’s Club, at major coin shows. To be honest with you, the Lincoln Cent series is not of great interest to me and I can count on one hand the number of Lincolns that I have bought and sold in two decades of being a professional numismatist. That said I was excited to view the Blay collection when it finally was exhibited last year. Part of the reason was that Blay had cultivated an aura of mystery about his coins over the years. Everyone said how great they were but no one seemed to have actually seen more than a few at a time. When the coins did become available for viewing, this added to their mystique; it was one of the few collections that really lived up to its hype!

Even if you choose to never display your coins in person, you can display them virtually. Let’s say you have put together a great set of Liberty Head quarter eagles. How about buying the domain name www.libertyquartereagles.com and putting together a website that becomes the “go to” source for information and images on this series?

Another thing to consider is, from time to time, displaying a few of your coins. Every year or two, Brent Pogue selectively displays a few of the magnificent coins in his collection. He never shows more than a few and he doesn’t make a big fuss about them. But after I see them, I go back to my bourse table, look at my inventory and wonder if I shouldn’t take all of my coins and toss them into the closest trash can.

3. Let the grading services help you. Both PCGS and NGC LOVE serious collectors and both need good content for their websites. That’s why they are happy to run interviews with Dale Friend (as PCGS now has on their website) or sponsor Stewart Blay’s display. I can assure you that dealers like myself with a strong web presence would love to have Steve Duckor write a detailed article about how to collect Saints or how to put together a great set of coins. What better way for a collector to brand his collection than to have PCGS or NGC write glowing articles or to feature nice interviews!

Why Are Some Rare Coins Undervalued?

Why are some coins clearly undervalued? I could answer this question existentially and say “because some have to be.” But the answer to this question is worth a little more exploration. Here are some things to consider about the valuations of coins. First and foremost, many of the areas of the rare coin market are thinly traded. In some cases, published prices for coins are speculative due to no examples having ever traded or they represent older price levels that have not been updated in many years. There are times when I am trying to figure what to bid for a very special rare coin at auction and I’m not sure I can scientifically pinpoint the exact price level. This can even be the case with coins that aren’t all that special but which haven’t traded in a long enough period of time to make their current value baffling.

Coin values are predicated by a supply and demand ratio. I have used this scenario enough times that it is now a semi-cliché but consider the following. If there are ten examples known of a certain coin but only three people care, it has an oversupply and its value is probably not very high despite its rarity. But if the same coin has thirty avid collectors than it will probably have a strong level of value.

This supply vs. demand situation is why some truly rare coins remain undervalued. As an example, look at a coin like the 1867 quarter eagle. Only 3,200 were struck and the most recent PCGS population figures show that just twenty-four have been graded. Despite this fact, the current value in AU55 is a whopping $1,500 or so. Shouldn’t this be a $3,000 or even a $5,000 coin? In theory, yes it should. But practical experience dictates that the level of demand for 1867 quarter eagles, which is virtually non-existent, keeps the price low. Advocates of the 1867 quarter eagle will counter with the argument “well, if this were an Indian quarter eagle with a population of twenty-four in all grades, it would be worth 10x in AU55.” In theory, this argument has merit. My counter-argument would be that the Indian Quarter Eagle series is many times more popular with collectors and that this is essentially an apples to oranges comparison.

The coin market is clearly becoming more and more researched-based as time goes by but I think the entire pricing system we have is antiquated. Let’s get back to the point I made in the second paragraph, about the market having thinly traded areas. These infrequently traded series are often compounded by a lack of good pricing information. I am always impressed by collector-dominated series like early Large Cents or Bust half dollars that have databases of pricing information available to collectors. The rare gold coin market doesn’t have this (yet) and I think it would be a real shot in the arm if someone were able to produce a price guide that helped dealers and collectors accurately determine values.

What I’d like to see even more is for an appearance-specific price guide to exist for these coins. Collectors of early Large Cents classify coins by three categories: choice, average and “scudzy.” Let’s say collectors are offered a certain die variety of 1796 Large Cent. A choice coin may be worth $5,000, an average coin $3,500 and a very low-end coin might only be worth $2,000. I’m not certain that these variations would be as extreme for, say, an 1854-C quarter eagle in slabbed AU55 but I do personally think a nice coin for the grade is already worth considerably more than an ugly one.

Getting back to my original point: why are certain coins undervalued? As I stated earlier, the major reason for this is that they are just not that popular. Another reason--one that is harder to give an explanation to--is that in any long series, it is inevitable that a percentage of the coins are “sleepers.” I previously mentioned that the lack of accurate pricing information in the market means that it is always going to be inevitable that a number of coins fall through the cracks. The value of being a specialist is that you will learn what coins are the sleepers before they become more widely known.

The Warehouse Theory of Coin Collecting/Investing Revisited

A few years ago, I wrote an article entitled “The Warehouse Theory of Coin Investing.” The gist of this article was that there are certain coins that remain in such demand with collectors that a sound investment theory might be to stockpile attractive examples of these and work with a specialized dealer who could then, over the course of time, resell them to other collectors. A coin that I used as the Poster Child for this was the 1854-D $3.00. If you had listened to this advice, you probably outperformed the market. There are clearly a small but definable group of coins that have been in strong demand over the last few years and their price levels have risen accordingly. Even in the now-weaker market of early 2009, I think many of these remain in demand and their overall level of value has stayed higher than other, “non-essential” coins.

What are some of the coins that I would suggest collectors put away multiples of in 2009?

I remain a big fan of any coin that has multiple levels of demand. What I mean by this, is a coin that is sought-after by collectors who might not normally be interested in this series. An example is the 1861-D gold dollar. Because of this issue’s association with the Confederacy, there is demand for it from collectors who are likely to never buy another Dahlonega coin of any date or denomination. But this coin is also sought by gold dollar specialists, last-year-of-issue collectors, Dahlonega specialists and collectors who like cool, historic coins, regardless of when or where they were produced.

What are some of the other coins that I would suggest collectors might be clever if they owned a few decent examples? Let’s look at this on a mint-by-mint basis. (Please note that this assumes that any duplicate coins purchased for “warehousing” meet the following criteria: choice for the grade, fairly priced and good overall eye appeal).

Carson City: Any 1870-CC gold coin is desirable and they always sell quickly for me when I have them in stock. Because of its currently high price I might not want to own two or three 1870-CC double eagles. I would be most likely to want multiple examples of the 1870-CC eagle in VF and EF grades as this issue remains a good value at current levels. I wouldn’t be opposed to owning multiple examples of any relatively affordable half eagle or eagle from the 1870’s that was totally original with great color and choice surfaces, especially if it were priced below $15,000.

Charlotte: The one Charlotte issue that comes to mind as being a great warehousing candidate would be the 1838-C half eagle in Very Fine to About Uncirculated grades. This issue’s status as a one-year type and a first-year-of-issue makes it extremely popular with collectors. My other two choices would be an 1838-C quarter eagle and an 1839-C half eagle. I might also suggest stockpiling any $3,000 or lower coin from this mint that was 100% virgin original.

Dahlonega: There are five very obvious warehouse choices from this mint: the 1855-D and 1861-D gold dollars, the 1854-D three dollar and the 1838-D and 1861-D half eagles. The first, third and fifth coins are one-year types while the second and the fourth have Confederate association(s). Another issue that I would give consideration to is the 1855-D quarter eagle. This has the lowest mintage of any Dahlonega coin and it is the single rarest issue produced at this mint. I would remind the potential warehouser of any or all of these coins that damaged or low-end examples need not apply. The same comment that I made for sub-$3,000 Charlotte coins applies to those made in Dahlonega as well.

Denver: Your basketball team is doing well this year but I don’t see many warehouse possibilities. With the possible exception of the scarce 1911-D eagle. Oh, and I like LoDo a lot...

New Orleans: There are five distinct one-year types from this mint: 1855-O gold dollar, 1839-O quarter eagle, 1854-O three dollar, 1909-O half eagle and 1879-O double eagle. I find all five of these to be popular and liquid, although I’m not sure that I consider all of them to be warehousing candidates. As an example, I wouldn’t suggest that anyone own multiple examples of the 1909-O in Extremely Fine. But I like this date in properly graded AU55 and above and I certainly would encourage a warehouser to salt away a few.

The New Orleans issues that I would be most inclined to suggest that someone own multiples of are the key issues that are still not fully valued. Some of these include the 1845-O quarter eagle, the 1847-O half eagle, the 1841-O, 1879-O and 1883-O eagles and the 1855-O double eagle.

Choice, original No Motto coins from New Orleans that are priced at below $3,000 seem like a good area to warehouse as well; especially half eagles.

Philadelphia: One of the problems about discussing gold coins from this mint is that you are looking at a lot of denominations (gold dollars through double eagles) and a long, long time of issuance (1795-1933). For the sake of this article, we’ll focus briefly on the early issues (pre-1834) and the Liberty Head issues (1840-1908).

There are lots of early gold coins that make sense as warehouse candidates. Most people are going to guess that I suggest famous issues like the 1796 No Stars quarter eagle. Actually, the coins I’d be more likely to want to warehouse are the Fat Head half eagles from the late 1820’s/early 1830’s. These coins are expensive and could certainly decline in value if the economy gets more uncertain but they are incredibly rare and, after many years of neglect, are now appreciated by many levels of collectors.

The Liberty Head issues that would make interesting warehouse candidates include the classic rarities from this mint: the 1841 and 1863 quarter eagles, the 1875 and 1876 three dollars, the 1887 half eagle and the 1875 eagle. I would also suggest a small number of very rare issues that, while not extremely popular (at least yet...) appear to represent good value relative to their rarity. These include the 1863 gold dollar, 1864 and 1865 quarter eagles, the 1863 and 1865 half eagles and the 1863, 1873, 1876 and 1877 eagles.

San Francisco: The obvious issues to warehouse from San Francisco would be the mega-rarities: 1854-S quarter eagle, 1864-S half eagle and 1864-S eagle. Even though there are a lot of undervalued and very rare issues from San Francisco, this mint’s comparative unpopularity leads me to believe that warehousing coins from the Barbary Coast might not be a stellar idea.

If you do decide to warehouse a specific issue (or more) my advice is to be under the radar. Let one dealer with who you have a good relationship know about it. I wouldn’t suggest you broadcast to the world that you own five 1838-D half eagles. If you are discrete about what you own, it will be to your advantage when it comes time to sell.

I currently know a number of collectors who warehouse certain gold issues and it is enjoyable for me to work with them. If this is something that intrigues you, please feel free to contact me via email at dwn@ont.com.

Cleaning Up Your Collection

As I write this, there is a real disconnect in the coin market. Simply put, despite what is very probably the worst economic year since the height of the Depression, the coin market remains comparatively vibrant. I think this represents something that many collectors are overlooking: this could be a great opportunity to clean up some of the messes in your collection and come out without taking a nasty financial hit.

This statement is making a big assumption: that the financial mess we are in now will impact the coin market more intensely than it has so far. Who knows; maybe it won’t. But my guess is that we will see a further drop in prices on coins that aren’t really exciting, either off-quality, not rare or a combination of the two.

If you are like most collectors, you’ve probably made some mistakes over the years. And if you are like most collectors you may have hidden your mistakes in the back of your safety deposit box and figured “out of sight, out of mind.” As I mentioned above, this might be a really good time to consider trimming the fat.

I have long been an advocate of the “quality trumps quantity” school of numismatics. In my experience, most collectors own too many coins. Some collectors own way too many coins and they have a considerable amount of money tied-up in “stuff” that has little relevance to their current collection. I think it’s a great idea every few years to weed out some of the stuff that has accumulated in your collection.

The coins that are most likely to lose value in the coming year are coins that have either gone up too much in value in the last few years to sustain their market or coins that have a limited amount of demand. You might want to include these along with the “what was I thinking when I bought that...” coins.

When you look through your collection, you should use what I called the “ahhh.... test.” Coins that you like are going to make you go “ahhh...” when you view them and you can probably remember the exact circumstances in which you purchased them. Coins that don’t speak to you or which don’t tweak your memory haven’t passed this test and they might be candidates for a purge.

You might own coins that you don’t really care much about but which are still strong. A great example of this is generic gold. Many collectors have salted away a few St. Gaudens double eagles or Liberty Head eagles over the years. They might not care at all about these but they might also be able to make a nice profit if they sell them at the currently-high premiums in the market. If I had a decent position of generics in my collection, I’d seriously consider taking a few and selling them right now.

I’d be even more interested in selling these Misfit Coins in my collection if I had an alternative coin coming down the pike that seemed like it was too good a deal to pass up...and I didn’t necessarily have the ready cash to make this deal happen.

Here’s another circumstance where you might have coins that are no longer useful to your collection. Let’s say you started a collection but lost interest and now you have a 50% complete set lying around. If the coins are nice quality and price levels aren’t way off on the series in question, it might not be a bad idea to sell the coins you have and use the money on coins in the set(s) you are actively collecting.

What is the best way to clean up your collection? You have a number of options and these options depend, at least in part, on the type(s) of coins that you own. If you live in a town with a reputable brick and mortar coin shop and you have pounds and pounds of “stuff” then selling this material outright or on consignment might be a good idea.

If what you have fits more into the specialist category, choose a specialist dealer to make an outright offer or to take the coin(s) on consignment.

And, of course, you can always go the auction route if you are thinking of selling very high-powered or highly specialized material.

In conclusion, this might be a good time to get rid of some of your less-exciting material at levels that aren’t going to insult your sensibilities. For what’s its worth, this is exactly what I’ve been doing with my own inventory for the last four to six months and even though I’ve had to make a few decisions that were painful at first, I’m very glad that I sold some of the coins I did at the prices they went away at.

Building A High Quality 19TH and 20TH Century U.S. Gold Type Set: The BVG Theory

In the last few decades, specialized (and highly specialized) collecting has become all the rage in numismatics. But back in the day, anyone who was anyone collected coins by type. I believe that the type method of collecting still applies well to United States gold; especially those coins produced from 1838 through 1933. I wrote an article in March 2000 in which I coined the phrase “Best Value Grade.” This concept (if not this phrase...) seemed to have a big impact on the people who read it and to this day I still have people refer to it when discussing individual coins with me.

In case you’ve forgotten what Best Value Grade or BVG means (and I accept your apology if you have forgotten) I described it as follows back in March 2000: “every U.S. coin has a price point above which it no longer makes economic sense to purchase it.” Let me give you a quick example of the BVG.

Let’s say you can buy a nice MS64 1899-S double eagle for around $3,000-3,500. Seems like a pretty reasonable price for a coin that is relatively scarce in this grade, is probably quite attractive and which has a very limited range of popularity. The same coin, if you can find it, costs around $20,000 in MS65. My belief is that unless you are a large-budget collector who absolutely has to have the best of everything, it makes more economic sense to buy this coin in MS64 and use the saved money for other more interesting items.

My BVG theory applies really well to gold type collecting. Let’s take a look at the various major gold types produced between 1838 or so (the introduction of the Classic Head design) and 1933 (the abolishment of gold issues for circulation).

I. Gold Dollars

There are three gold dollar types that are included in all type sets. The first, known as the Type One, was struck between 1849 and 1854. I personally feel that MS65 coins are the best value in this type. Given the small size of these coins, many collectors have a tough time determining the difference between an MS65 and an MS66 and the former is about half the price of the latter. At the present time, you can find a really nice MS65 Type One gold dollar for under $5,000. I’d pay a small premium and choose an 1849 as this is a neat first-year-of issue.

Type Two gold dollars were produced from 1854 through 1856 and they are among the more expensive coins in a gold type set. Even though MS65 examples have dropped quite a bit in price from a few years ago, I think a nice high end MS64 is a really good value right now. I have seen examples selling in the $15,000 range and this price point makes sense to me. For type purposes, either an 1854 or 1855 will suffice.

Type Three gold dollars were produced from 1856 through 1889. This is one type that as a collector I might splurge a bit on. Very high quality pieces are more available than one might expect and they often have exceptional eye appeal. I would select an MS67 for my type set and these coins are now available for around $4,000. I’d try and pick a date from the early 1880’s as these are a bit scarcer than the late 1880’s issues, yet sell for essentially the same price.

II. Quarter Eagles

Some type collectors begin their quarter eagles with the Liberty Head type but I would suggest adding a Classic Head as well. Produced from 1834 to 1839, this type is attractive, historic and highly collectible. Gem examples of this type are rare and expensive but MS63 and MS64 pieces are available. I would be inclined to go with an MS64. An 1834 or 1836 are the two relatively available dates of this type and a nice MS64 should be available in the $15,000-17,500 range.

The next quarter eagle type is the Liberty Head that was made from 1840 through 1907. I would personally choose an MS66 example for my type set. These had been in a price slump and had dipped well below the $3,000 level. With the current strength in the generic gold market they are back up to around $4,000 but are still good deals at this level. If possible, I’d choose a coin made in the 1890’s as opposed to one made in the early 1900’s.

The third and final quarter eagle type in this set is the popular Indian Head. This is another issue that has seen some price declines in the past few years in higher grades. I’d suggest a nice, handselected MS65. This is going to cost in the $3,500 to $4,000 range and it seems to me to be better value than an MS66 at more than double the price. I’d select a 1908; again, due to its first-year-of-issue status. III. Three Dollar

The charismatic Three Dollar gold piece was struck from 1854 to 1889. This is one of my personal favorite types in this set. The type collector has a number of options here. He can choose a common date in MS65 and probably find a really exceptional coin for less than $20,000. Or, he might choose a common date in MS64 for around $8,000-9,000. Due to the scarcity and uniqueness of this denomination, I might splurge and go for the MS65. The most common dates in high grades are the 1854, 1874, 1888 and 1889.

IV. Half Eagles

The first design type in our set is the Classic Head. It was made from 1834 through 1838. Gems are quite scarce and very expensive so most type collectors will focus on coins graded MS63 or MS64. The former should be available in the $12,500-15,000 range while the latter will cost $20,000 and up. I can see the argument for both sides when considering an MS63 or an MS64 for a BVG gold type set. I think I’d opt for a nice MS63 and I might try and look for any date other than the common 1834. Even though the 1839 is a distinct one-year type, most collectors include it in along with the standard Liberty Head design. There are two major subtypes: the No Motto issues of 1840-1866 and the With Motto issues of 1866-1907. I’ve become a pretty big fan of No Motto half eagles over the years and this is one type that I feel is worth stretching for. For the BVG type collector, the best options are an MS63 or an MS64. A nice example of the former can be found around $6,000-8,000 while the latter will cost $12,500 or so. The Philadelphia issues from the 1840’s and 1850’s are the logical choice for a type set. With Motto Liberty Head half eagles are an easy type to find even in very high grades. For this set, I’d go with a nice MS65 and expect to spend in the area of $4,000-5,000. I would look for a date struck in the 19th century versus one from the 20th century and would expect to pay little—if any—premium for this. The final half eagle type for this set is the Indian Head. The BVG for this type is kind of a no-brainer, given the fact that an MS65 costs around four times more than an MS64. I would look for a nice, high end MS64 and expect to find one in the $4,000-5,000 range.

V. Eagles

The first Liberty Head design type of 1838-1839 constitutes a distinct design but most collectors do not include this as a separate type in their set. Instead, they begin their set with the No Motto Liberty Head issues produced between 1840 and 1866. This is an extremely rare type in Gem and most collectors will be content to add an MS63 or an MS64. As far as the Best Value Grade goes, I’d be inclined to suggest a nice, high end MS63 in the $15,000-20,000 range but could also see the benefits of an MS64; in spite of the healthy $30,000++ price tag and the difficulty in finding such a coin. For most collectors, a Philadelphia coin from the 1847-1856 era is going to be included in their type set.

The With Motto Liberty Head eagles were made from 1866 to 1907 and they are substantially easier to find in high grades than their No Motto counterparts. I would recommend an MS65 and such a coin will cost around $5,000-6,000. As usual, I’d look for a 19th century date versus a 20th but the most important thing to consider for such a coin is the appearance and surface preservation as opposed to the date of issuance.

The final eagle for this type set is the Indian Head. These were issued from 1907 through 1933. This is an interesting design and it features dates that range from very common to very rare. For our BVG set we would focus on one of the common dates and would probably select anything other than the ultra-available 1926 or 1932. An MS65 will cost in the area of $5,000-6,000 and this should suffice.

VI. Double Eagles

There are two distinct designs that exist for this denomination. The first is the Liberty Head. These coins were struck from 1850 through 1907 and are found with three important subtypes.

The first Liberty Head type is the Type One, which was issued from 1850 through 1866. Until the discovery of a number of shipwrecks, this type was extremely rare in higher grades. Now, these coins are plentiful in higher grades. For a BVG type set I would be inclined to go with either an MS64 which will cost around $8,000-9,000 or an MS65 which will cost $12,500 or a bit more. The best issue for a type set is the 1857-S from the S.S. Central America shipwreck.

The Type Two Liberty Head double eagles were made from 1866 until 1876. They are extremely rare in high grades and for most collectors, a nice MS63 is about the best quality that is realistic. For a piece in this grade, we are looking at an expenditure of around $12,500 or so as opposed to $40,000++ for an MS64. The most available dates for a type set include the 1873 Open 3, 1875, 1876 and 1876-S.

The third and final Liberty Head issue is the Type Three. These coins were made from 1877 through 1907 and they are exceedingly common in higher grades. Most BVG collections will feature a nice MS65 and such a coin can generally be purchased for less than $5,000. There are many good dates to choose from but I would suggest, if possible, finding one made in the 19th century as opposed to the 20th century.

The final major gold type is the popular St. Gaudens, struck from 1907 through 1933. Some collectors include a 1907 High Relief in their type set but, for most collectors, a common date in high grades will suffice. I would recommend a very attractive MS66. For well under $4,000 the BVG collector should be able to purchase an outstanding example.

Assembling a high grade set of gold type coins produced from 1834 through 1933 is a good challenge for the beginning, intermediate or advanced collector. By using the Best Value Grade theory, the collector should be able to assemble a very high quality set without overreaching on any of the specific coins.

I would be happy to answer any questions about gold type coins or the theory of Best Value Grade and can be reached by email at dwn@ont.com.

"I Know What I'm Going to Collect. What's Next?"

So you've made the decision that you are going to collect a specific series. What are the next step(s) that you should take? If you are going to form a serious, high-end collection one of the first things that you need to do is to examine comparable collections. As an example, if you have decided to assemble a set of Liberty Head eagles, it would make sense to know the grades of other sets that have been put together.

When it comes to 19th century gold, some of the old stand-bys are the Norweb, Eliasberg and Bass collections. It is very instructive to compile lists of the coins in these three collections as they pertain to what you are planning to collect yourself. For example, if you have decided to assemble a set of high grade New Orleans half eagles, you can make a spreadhseet of the relavent coins in these three collections.

Luckily, this information is reasonably easy to access. (Thank you, Internet...) On the PCGS website, the Set Registry pages list the "probable" grades of the Eliasberg and Bass gold coins (not to mention another pretty decent set, that found in the Smithsonian). The grades of the coins in the Norweb collection can be found in the three sales of this collection that were conducted by Bowers and Merena back in the mid-1980's.

Knowing what quality coins were owned by a great collection is important informantion for a new collector. As an example, let's sat you are being offered an MS63 example of a specific Liberty Head eagle. If the best piece Bass owned was an MS61 and Eliasberg only had an AU55, then the chances are good that this is a significant coin.

There are exceptions to this rule, however. Let's say that the MS63 Liberty Head eagle mentioned above is from a small hoard that was discovered after Bass or Eliasberg stopped actively buying coins. In this situation, the significance of the Bass and Eliasberg holdings are not as great. An example of this would be an 1894-O eagle in MS63. This date was essentially unknown in Uncirculated when Eliasberg was buying and very few examples better than MS60 were available to Bass. Today, because of hoards found overseas, this issue is scarce but not impossible to find in MS63.

If the series that you are goping to collect has a number of active Set Registry collectors, it is important to study the top sets that are on both the PCGS and NGC websites. Let's say that you are focusing on St. Gaudens Double Eagles. Without being congnizant of the best active sets in the Registries, you won't have a good idea of what grades you'll need to make your set competitive.

But there is much more to assembling a high-quality set than checking out Set Registry information. I'd strongly suggest that before you buy any coins for your new set that you invest a few hundred dollars in books and auction catalogs. There is no more important guide for the new collector than important specialized auction catalogs. I have written articles on which catalogs are important for the gold coin specialist to own and won't be redundant be listing them again; use the search function on my website to look for these.

One other thing you need to decide is just how high-end you want your set to be. If you have deep pockets and lots of patience, you will probably want to purchase coins that are either the finest known or which rate high in the Condition Census. If you are have a more modest budget, you will want to stick with coins that are above-average for the issue but not necessarily in Uncirculated grades. Learning the quality of other specialized sets will give you a good idea what the best grades for each specific issue are.

Is Collecting by Date a Thing of the Past?

Is the age of collecting by date or variety over? Have coins become so expensive and collecting so complex that it is inevitable that new collectors will focus solely on type coins? As a dealer who sells rare gold coins to both highly specialized date collectors and to sophisticated type collectors I think numismatics is definitely going through a change but that collecting by date remains (and will continue to be) very popular with a certain type of individual. To collect a series or a mint by date requires a type of mindset. I think of date collectors as being more patient than type collectors and probably a bit more research-oriented. To a generalized, type-oriented collector, there is no difference between an 1848-D and an 1858-D half eagle. To the date collector, there is a significant amount of difference between these two coins; be it strike, appearance, coloration, etc.

I don’t think there is a “right” or a “wrong” way to collect. I admire the highly specialized date collector who takes years to assemble a set of Charlotte half eagles or Liberty Head eagles. During the process, he is probably learning more about the specific series that he is collecting than most dealers. He “gets” the difference between the 1848-D half eagle and the 1858-D half eagle and does not have to have it explained to him.

But I can absolutely see the reason to collect by type as well. Not everyone has the patience to assemble a long set of coins and most series have one or two (or more) stoppers that make completing a set impossible. And there is clearly something cool about the fact that a type collector buys something different every time he makes a purchase. Anyone can tell the difference between an 1838 Classic Head half eagle and a 1910 Indian Head half eagle; most people see an 1848-D and 1858-D half eagle and they see essentially the same coin(s).

To the coin market gurus who emphatically state that collecting by date or variety is a dying endeavor, I would answer that this is not the case. To refute this, one need only look at the fact that in this golden era of numismatic publishing, there continues to be a run of titles that deal with specific series but virtually none that deal with type collecting. In the area of gold coins, in the last few years we’ve seen titles about gold dollars, 20th century issues, three dollar pieces, Charlotte and New Orleans issues, etc.

Not only is collecting by series alive and well, specialization seems to be doing just fine, thanks. In the recent Bowers and Merena Baltimore auction, the seventh known example of the 1795 Liberty Cap with Reeded Edge Cent brought an astonishing $402,500. What’s even more incredible about this figure is the fact that the coin is only graded Good-4 by PCGS and it clearly isn’t going to win any beauty contests. However, it is an extremely rare variety in an extremely popular series (early Large Cents by Sheldon variety). As we all know, it just takes two to tango and if two well-heeled collectors decide to butt heads on a coin that they know they might not get another chance to own, the final price realized is often jaw-dropping. Weak economy or not, many highly specialized collector series remain as strong as ever.

What does the future hold for date collecting? I see a few possible scenarios.

There are some series that are so long and so challenging that they will never attract more than a handful of date collectors. As an example, Liberty Head eagles are so tough that it is hard to imagine more than three to five people at one time competing against each other to form a set. But, on the flip side, when you have as many rare dates as the Liberty Head eagle series does, a sudden onslaught of demand would be untenable.

Other series that were once popular to collect by date are likely to become less popular due to the vicissitudes of taste. A century ago, virtually no one knew what a branch mint gold coin was, let alone collected them; today these are more popular than issues from Philadelphia. What is popular today could become forgotten a generation or two from now.

If well-written reference books on a formerly-overlooked series are released, date collecting can gain appeal. I’d like to think that the publication of my New Orleans gold coin book in 2006 spurred a number of people to collect by date. Newly released books on Colonials/Early American coins and Peace Dollars could have a huge impact in these two markets as well.

Something that we are likely to see in the future is a hybridization of collecting tastes. I wouldn’t be surprised if date and type collecting become more finely synthesized. As an example, someone might decide he doesn’t want to collect a full date set of Charlotte half eagles. But he likes the series enough that he wants to do more than collect the three types. He might become an “advanced dabbler” who doesn’t feel compelled to complete the series but who decides to own five or six or even seven different dates because he feels that Charlotte half eagles are really interesting.

One thing we are destined to see in many series if prices go down is the shrinking of the Market Premium Factor. In series that are not terribly popular, coins that formerly sold for a 10-30% premium over a common date are likely to lose this premium and retract down to a common type coin level. We are already seeing this in some of the 20th century series and I wouldn’t be totally shocked to see this in the early gold and Liberty Head gold markets.

Another point to address: how will key dates fair in series that become less popular with date collectors? The answer depends on whether or not there are multiple levels of demand for this coin. As an example, the 1873 three dollar gold piece is a key date but if the three dollar series becomes less popular, its level of demand will shrink. The 1854-D three dollar is likely to lose less value in a declining market because there are a broader range of collectors who want this coin: not only specialists in the series, but Dahlonega collectors and one-year type collectors as well.

The Proof Gold Market

For those of us who experienced the coin market’s ups and downs in the 1980’s and 1990’s, perhaps the biggest surprise has been the relatively quiet Proof gold market of the past few years. While prices for Proof gold have certainly risen since the beginning of this decade, new collectors don’t seem to regard these coins with the same degree of awe that was seen in the recent past. If you are a Proof gold collector, please do not misinterpret the introductory paragraph I just wrote. I personally love Proof gold and there is no arguing the fact that a $25,000 purchase made in this area in, say, 2001 isn’t worth considerably more today. What makes me sit back and scratch my head a little is the fact that Proof gold just doesn’t seem to be as active a market right now as early gold or key dates from the 20th century. Why?

I have a few theories. The first is the fact that a huge number of Proof gold coins quietly went off the market between 2000 to 2006 to a specific overseas buyer. Today, the supply of interesting Proof gold is the lowest I can remember. If you look at the typical major auction, there are just a few pieces of Proof gold for sale and they tend to be coins struck after 1890 and, more often than not, smaller denominations. When years go by between appearances for rare Proof gold issues, it is difficult for there to be an active two-way market which then results in a lack of pricing information or stimulus for new collectors.

This brings me to theory #2. This lack of material has meant relatively little promotion of Proof gold in the past five years or so. A dealer like me can write articles about how great Proof gold is, how rare Proof gold is and what an excellent value Proof gold is, but if I don’t have any coins available to sell to potential new collectors or investors, what’s the point? If you look back over time, various dealers were always promoting Proof gold. I think the relative lack of supply has caused marketers, retail dealers and other traditional advocates of Proof gold to search elsewhere for trophy coins to sell to new clients.

Something odd that happened in the Proof gold market was an oversupply in the late 1990’s/early 2000’s. The coin market was not especially strong back then and within a few years you had at least four huge collections of Proof gold come on the market at once (Pittman, Reed, Childs and Bass). Proof gold issues that seemed incredibly rare in 1995 all of a sudden seemed kind of common in 2002. As an example, I can remember owning no less than three Proof 1869 quarter eagles at the same time in 2002. This is an issue with an original mintage of 25 and an estimated nine or ten examples known. How was I going to convince a collector that this issue was rare when I owned three of the darn things? Needless to say, I wound-up losing money on two of them.

Another thing that hasn’t helped the Proof gold market is the lack of original coins. I think this is especially true with 20th century issues. I know that I personally pretty much quit buying coins like Proof Indian Head quarter eagles, half eagles and eagles as well as Proof Saints a few years ago because it was so incredibly hard to find coins that hadn’t either been doctored or over-conserved. And it’s often hard for me to pay $25,000, $50,000 or more for a 19th century Proof gold coin that looks like the Gallery Mint produced it last month. I can’t imagine that I’m the only dealer (or collector) who feels that way.

I think what would really give the Proof gold market the shot-in-the-arm that it needs is if a fresh, interesting collection were to come onto the market. It would be especially interesting if this were an out-of-the-woodwork collection where the coins had been bought in the 1950’s and 1960’s; before the era of dipping and conserving (and more) became so prevalent in this area.

Do you have questions or comments about Proof gold? Please feel free to contact me via email at dwn@ont.com and I would be happy to assist you in any way that I can.