A Collection of Transitional Gold Coins

I am often asked for ideas about what to collect, especially ones that are a little bit "out of the box." I recently had a conversation with a long-time collector about new directions for his set and we discussed the possibility of starting a transitional set of 19th century American gold coins.

By "transitional," I am referring to a coin that was struck as two different types during the same year. An example of this would be an 1854 gold dollar from Philadelphia which was produced as both as Type One and Type Two issue. Let's take a look at some of the transitional coins that are available to collectors who are considering this approach.

A pair of coins which is not a transition would be an 1861-S and 1861-S Paquet Reverse double eagle. This is the case because the 1861-S Paquet reverse was not used in any other year. An 1866-S No Motto reverse and an 1866-S With Motto are a transitional pair because the newer reverse was used in the following year(s).

1.  GOLD DOLLARS

The Liberty Head gold dollar was produced from 1849 through 1889.  There were a total of three types and there are a few interesting possibilities for the transitional collector.

In 1854, the Philadelphia, Dahlonega and San Francisco mint produced gold dollars with the Type One design. During the same year, a Type Two gold dollar was made at the Philadelphia mint as well. Both the 1854 Type One and Type Two gold dollars are common, although the latter becomes scarce and expensive in the higher Uncirculated grades. A transitional pairing of the 1854-P Type One and Type Two dollars could easily be assembled in MS63 to MS64 grades.

In 1856, there was a Type Two gold dollar made at the San Francisco mint and well as Type Three issue at Philadelphia and Dahlonega. These are not transitional issues, in the strictest sense of the word, as they were made during the same year but at different mints.

2.  QUARTER EAGLES

Production of this denomination began in 1796 and continued all the way until 1929. During this period, there were a number of transitional issues.

The first transitional pair of quarter eagles occurs in 1796 when both the No Stars and the With Stars issues were made. A total of 963 examples of the No Stars were struck and just 432 of the With Stars. While the more common of the two, the No Stars is better known and considered more desirable by many collectors. The 1796 With Stars is a very rare coin in all grades and is generally seen in lower grades than its No Stars counterpart. This transitional pair will be the most expensive part of such a set with nice AU-Uncirculated examples costing at least $250,000-300,000 and possibly more.

While the 1796 transitional set will be the most expensive quarter eagles in this set, the rarest coin will be the 1834 With Motto, which is the final year of issue for the Capped Head Left (reduced size) type struck from 1829 to 1834. There were 4,000 of these struck but nearly all were melted and today an estimated 20 or so exist. Later in the year, the better-known Classic Head design was introduced and the first-year-of-issue 1834 is common in grades up to MS63 and sometimes obtainable in MS64.  A transitional pair of 1834 quarter eagles could, in theory, be obtained for less than $100,000 but the earlier issue from this year might take years of waiting to locate.

No other transitional pairs exist for the quarter eagle denomination.

No transitional pairs exist for the three dollar gold piece.

3.  HALF EAGLES

The half eagle denomination began in 1795 and ended in 1929. It is fertile ground for the transitional collector with a number of interesting pairs extent, especially during the first few years of production.

The 1795 half eagle exists with both the Small Eagle reverse (employed on this denomination from 1795 through 1798) and the Heraldic Eagle reverse (used from 1795 until 1807). The 1795 Small Eagle is a reasonably common coin by the standards of early half eagles and it is, as one might expect, extremely popular. The 1795 Heraldic Eagle is considerably scarcer, especially in higher grades, although it is more obtainable. A nice transitional pair of 1795 half eagles will run  $100,000 or so but, in my opinion, it is one of the most visually arresting contrasts in all of American coinage.

Another transitional pair exists in 1797. Two different 1797 Small Eagle half eagles are known; the 15 star obverse and the 16 star obverse. Both are very rare although the former is more difficult to find and is not often offered for sale. There is a 1797/5 Heraldic Eagle known which is also very rare although it is at least obtainable; two other 1797 Heraldic eagle varieties (the 15 star and the 16 star non-overdate) which are unique and located in the Smithsonian. A transitional set of 1797 half eagles would be expensive ($200,000+) and hard to assemble but it would make an exceptional item and would be a highlight of this set.

In theory, a 1798 transitional set could be assembled as well but the Small Eagle is exceedingly rare with just eight known; the last example to sell at auction (a PCGS EF40) brought $264,500 back in 2000. The Heraldic Eagle variety from this year is reasonably common. It is possible that this set could be assembled but it would take deep pockets and considerable good fortune to even have a shot as obtaining a 1798 Small Eagle in today's rarity-conscious market.

The next transitional set in the half eagle denomination is the 1807 Bust Right and 1807 Bust Left. Both issues are reasonably common and a set could be put together, if so desired, in grades as high as MS64 to MS65. For $20,000-30,000, a more reasonably price alternative would include two nice AU coins.

A very interesting and very rare transitional pair occurs in 1829 with the Large Date (Large Diameter) and Small Date (Small Diameter). Both of these issues are very rare and generally trade once every few years. We're talking in excess of $1 million dollars for this pair and even having the money is no assurance that a set could be assembled.

A really interesting pair of transitional pairs exists for the 1834 half eagles. The Capped Head Left reduced diameter type began in 1829 and continued until 1834. During this year, both Plain 4 and Crosslet 4 varieties. Both are quite rare with the latter being harder to find. Later in the year, the new Classic Head variety was introduced and, again, both Plain 4 and Crosslet 4 coins are known with the latter being considerably rarer. It would be difficult but not impossible to put together this "pair of pairs" with the two Capped Head coins in AU-MS grades, the Plain 4 Classic Head in a grade as high as MS64 and the Crosslet 4 Classic Head in the lower MS grades.

The next group of transitional pair half eagles occur in 1842 and 1843. 1842 Philadelphia half eagles are known with Small Letters and Large Letters reverse varieties. The former is the type of 1839-1842 while the latter began in 1842 and continued all the way through 1866. Both are scarce and undervalued with the Large letters being the rarer of the two. A pair could be assembled in nice AU grades for $10,000-15,000.

The same transitional pair exists for 1842-C half eagles. The 1842-C Small Date is very rare in all grades while the Large Date is more available. An EF-AU pair would cost $20,000-25,000 to assemble.

With the 1842-D half eagles, the exact opposite rarity pattern is seen. The Small Date is the more obtainable (although it is very rare in Uncirculated) while the Large Date is rare and almost impossible to find above AU55. A nice AU pair could be assembled for $25,000-35,000.

This transition occurred for New Orleans half eagles in 1843-O. The Small Letters is slightly scarcer than the Large Letters but both are reasonably easy to find in EF and AU grades. A pair in AU could be purchased for less than $10,000.

The next transitional pair for half eagles occurs in 1866 when the San Francisco mint made 9,000 No Motto coins and34,920 With Motto coins. The former is extremely scarce while the latter is scarce but a bit more obtainable. The 1866-S No Motto is seldom found above AU50 while the With Motto is seldom found above AU53 to AU55. A pair of AU examples would cost around $20,000.

The final transitional pair for half eagles occurs in 1908 when both the Liberty Head and Indian Head types were struck. The 1908 Liberty Head was made only at the Philadelphia mint and it is common in grades up to MS64. The Indian Head type was made in 1908 at Philadelphia, Denver and San Francisco. It's possible to assemble a 1908-P half eagle set in MS65 for less than $20,000.

4.  EAGLES

The first transitional pair for the ten dollar eagle denomination occurs in 1797. The first coin struck this year was the Small eagle reverse of which only 3,615 were made. This is a rare coin in all grades and a very rare one in AU55 and above. Later this year, the large Eagle reverse was adapted and 10,940 were made. This issue is much easier to locate and it is sometimes seen in MS62 or even MS63 grades.  An AU set would cost at least 175,000-200,000 but it would be easier to assemble than the similarly dated half eagles (see above).

A less obvious but still important transitional pair occurs in 1839 with the Large Letters and Small Letters reverses. The former, which is the more common, employs the same size lettering as seen on the 1838. The latter, which is far rarer, uses the same size lettering as seen on the 1840 (and onwards). It is possible to assemble this set in AU for $25,000 or so but finding a nice 1839 Small Letters reverse will prove challenging.

In 1866, the San Francisco mint struck No Motto and With Motto eagles. The No Motto coins had a mintage of 8,500 and are very scarce in all grades. The With Motto coins are more available but only 11,500 were struck. Both issues are extremely hard to find above AU50. A nice EF-AU pair would cost $25,000-35,000.

A potential transitional gold coin collector will have much to keep him busy with 1907 and 1908 eagles. In 1907, three mints (Philadelphia, Denver and San Francisco) made Liberty Head eagles. Later that year, the new Indian Head design by Augustus St. Gaudens was introduced.

There are actually three distinct types of 1907 Indian Head eagle: the Wire Edge, the Rolled Edge and the No Motto. The latter is by far the most common although it is probably the least numismatically interesting. Most transitional collectors purchase a 1907-P Liberty Head in MS63 to MS65 grades and a 1907 No Motto in MS63 to MS64. Adding the Wire Edge is a nice touch but it should be noted that a nice Uncirculated example runs around $50,000. And, in the parameters we discussed earlier in this article, these are not a true transitional pair as the Wire Edge design was not fully adapted in 1908.

The final transitional pair for this denomination occurs, as a "pair of pairs", in 1908. Both the Philadelphia and Denver mints struck No Motto eagles followed by With Motto issues. None of these are rare in grades below MS65 and a nice MS64 set is an accomplishment which is readily attainable.

5.  DOUBLE EAGLES

The best known transitional Liberty Head double eagle pair is the 1866-S No Motto and With Motto issues. Only 12,000 or so of the former were produced and it is a rare issue whose price has soared in the last decade. The 1866-S With Motto is much more available although it can be challenging to locate in any Uncirculated grade. An About Uncirculated pair will run at least $50,000 and possibly more if the collector is fussy about quality for the No Motto.

In 1907, there was a radical change in the design of the double eagle and, as with the eagle from this year, there are pieces which use the old Liberty Head design (from Philadelphia, Denver and San Francisco) and the new St. Gaudens design. There are two important varieties of St. Gaudens double eagle from 1907: the High Relief which uses Roman numerals for the date and the Arabic numerals. These were all struck at the Philadelphia. An ideal transitional set, in my opinion, would include a 1907-P Liberty Head double eagle and a 1907 Arabic numerals. A slightly more advanced set could include a High Relief as well. The two coin set is easy to assemble in MS64 for around $5,000.

A second transitional set occurs in 1908 when the motto IN GOD WE TRUST was added to the reverse of the double eagle. The 1908-P and 1908-D issues exist with a No Motto reverse; the same two dates were made with the With Motto reverse, as well as a 1908-S.

Transitional collecting is not for everyone and, as you can see from reading this article, a complete set is extremely expensive due to the rarity of certain 18th century transitional issues. I really like the idea of assembling a mostly-complete transitional set and would be happy to discuss such a set in detail if you'd like to email me at dwn@ont.com.

How to Get Started Collecting Early Gold

To my way of thinking, early gold coins (i.e., those struck prior to 1834) and among the most collectible and interesting areas in all of American numismatics. No, these coins aren't cheap and they are, in reality, somewhat overvalued when you compare them to many mid-19th century Liberty Head issues. But there is a pride-of-ownership factor associated with owning a 200 year old gold coin that you get from nothing else. 1. An Overview

When we refer to "early gold," this typically includes quarter eagles, half eagles and eagles produced at the Philadelphia mint from 1795 through 1834. I'd also like to include the Classic Head coinage of 1834-1838 as these pieces are more affordable and this article will then be of greater relevance as it will cover a more broad scope of collecting budgets.

The various types of early gold are as follows:

Quarter Eagle: No Stars on Obverse, 1796 only Quarter Eagle: Capped Bust Right, 1796-1807 Quarter Eagle: Capped Bust Left, 1808 only Quarter Eagle: Capped Head Left Large Size: 1821-1827 Quarter Eagle: Capped Head Left Reduced Size: 1829-1834 Quarter Eagle: Classic Head, 1834-1838

Half Eagle: Capped Bust Right, Small Eagle, 1795-1798 Half Eagle: Capped Bust Right, Heraldic Eagle, 1795-1807 Half Eagle: Capped Bust Left, 1807-1812 Half Eagle: Capped Head Left Large Size, 1813-1829 Half Eagle: Capped Head Left Reduced Size, 1829-1834 Half Eagle: Classic Head, 1834-1838

Eagle: Capped Bust Right, Small Eagle, 1795-1797 Eagle: Capped Bust Right, Heraldic Eagle, 1797-1804

The total number of types that most collectors pursue are fourteen. This includes six each of the quarter eagle and half eagle, and two eagles. The rarest and most expensive of the individual types are the 1796 No Stars and 1808 quarter eagles, and the 1829-1834 Capped Head Left, Reduced Size half eagle. For each of these three types, "entry level" coins will approach six figures and choice, significant pieces can run into the mid-six figures.

2. What to Buy to Get Started

Before you begin an early gold collection, I think its a good idea to spend $500-1,000 putting together a library of reference works.

The best book for new collectors is the Bass/Dannreuther reference that is published by Whitman. While it is oriented more towards die varieties than general collecting, it is still an extremely useful book.

I have written some good general articles on collecting early gold and these can be found in both the "articles" and "market reports" section of my website.

There are not many other books that deal specifically with early gold. The Akers books on United States gold coins are out-of-date but still of use. And the Harry Bass Research Foundation website (hbrf.org) has wonderful images of extremely choice gold coins in all three denominations, including extremely rare Proofs and specimen strikes.

One of the best sources of information for collectors of early gold are auction catalogs. Some of the sales held during the last few decades that had very strong holdings of early gold include Eliasberg (1982), Norweb, Bass, Keston, the "Apostrophe" sales, Archdiocese of Buffalo, Ed Price and many of the Heritage FUN and ANA Platinum night sessions. Do a search on the web for coin book dealers (there are a number of good ones) and ask for their help in putting together a nice group of 15-20 catalogs that are essential additions to any early gold library.

3. Deciding What to Collect

After you've decided to collect early gold, your next question is what direction is your collection going to take.

Basically, there are two paths that a new collector can take: collecting by type or specializing in a specific series and collecting by date. The path you take will depend on your budget.

Collecting early gold coins by date is ambitious (to say the least) due to the number of very rare coins in each of the three denomination. A date collection can be modified and made less expensive by deciding to collect only by date and not by variety. As an example, a collector working on early quarter eagles might opt to purchase only an 1804 with 14 stars on the reverse due to the fact that the 13 star variety is very rare and very expensive.

The decision to collect early gold is, of course, predicated on a collector's budget. If the collector has a reasonably modest budget, my suggestion would be to focus on the half eagles struck between 1800 and 1812 in the Extremely Fine and About Uncirculated grade range. This is a great date run as there are no rare issues (except for varieties) and every coin will be available in the $7,500-12,500 range depending on grade.

If a collector has a healthy budget available, the possibilities are almost limitless. A high quality type set, featuring one example each of the fourteen issues listed above, would be challenging and numismatically significant.

Two sets that I have been able to work on for clients are date runs of quarter eagles from 1796 to 1834 and Capped Head Left half eagles from 1813 to 1829. These are both truly challenging. There is a tremendous amount of subtle strategizing inherent in both sets as they include many issues that might come up for sale once every three to five years. It can be hard to figure out what to pay for a very rare date whose last auction record was as much as a decade ago!

4. Where to Buy

As a collector you have two options on where to purchase your early gold coins: from a specialist dealer or at auction. As a dealer who specializes in early gold, I obviously would suggest that you buy from me, but the answer is not so cut and dry.

Early gold can be quite complex to collect. Many early gold coins have been cleaned or "doctored" and it takes an expert to determine which are nice for the grade and which are average. This is an area that a collector would be smart to deal with a specialist and he will need to do some research into who he should buy from, as there are only a handful of United States coin dealers who really know the intricacies of the early gold market.

Certain very rare early gold coins are almost never offered for sale except at auction, so the auction market is always going to be a factor for the collector. I suggest hiring a dealer and paying him a standard 5% fee for viewing and executing bids.

Be forewarned that you are never going to buy a good coin "cheaply" at auction. Auctions are best used to pursue very rare coins or very high grade coins. They may not be the best source for more run-of-the-mill pieces (and I am not saying this in a derogatory sense) which a specialist dealer will have access to at more reasonable prices.

Some auctions are great sources for early gold coins because they offer pieces with impressive pedigrees. I am an advocate of buying early gold with strong provenance when possible and, for better or worse, many such coins wind-up in auctions. I know of at least a few collectors who are as interested in early gold coins with pedigrees and they are in the coins themselves. They would consider buying a duplicate or even a triplicate of an issue they already own because it has a great pedigree.

5. CAC or non-CAC?

There are areas of the rare coin market that CAC has made strong inroads on and others where it has had little or no impact. In my opinion, early gold is an area where CAC has made a very strong impact. CAC typically rewards originality and as the vast majority of early gold coins aren't original, CAC examples are often selling for premiums that range from 5% to 20%.

I think the early gold coins that are most impacted by CAC approval are common date pieces in higher grades. So many of the Capped Bust Right and Capped Bust Left half eagles that I see in MS63 to MS65 holders have been played-around with that I think a CAC stickered coin is an important purchase for the inexperienced collector.

I think CAC stickers are not as important on very rare early gold coins and more common issues in lower grades.

If you are looking at an early gold coin with a total population of a few dozen coins, you are not able to be as selective as with an issue which has hundreds of coins surviving. While I would never suggest buying a very rare early gold coin with problems (such as damage, signs of harsh cleaning, repairs, etc) I would (and will continue to) buy a coin like an 1804 14 star reverse quarter eagle or a half eagle from the mid-1820's that was decent-looking but not nice enough to be approved by CAC.

I also note less of a premium being given to less expensive early gold coins with CAC approval but I wouldn't be surprised if this changes as buyers of these coins are becoming more sophisticated and want nicer quality pieces.

6. Value Plays/Best Value Grades

Every collector wants to buy coins that are good value. Collectors of early gold are no different. There are some issues that I think are very good values. (important note: I think that any properly graded, choice early gold coin with natural surfaces is a good value but the following list are coins that are the best values).

Virtually all pre-1834 quarter eagles are rare and until a few years ago, they were priced at levels similar to the far more available half eagles of this era. This isn't the case anymore and a nice example of a reasonably available date of the Capped Right design (such as the 1802, 1805 or 1807) is now a $15,000-20,000 coin.

Early quarter eagles that I find to be undervalued include the 1798 (the only relatively affordable 18th century issue) and the 1806/4.

I like the Capped Head Left type of 1821-1827 and find this to be the most undervalued early quarter eagle type. Survival rates tend to be low and the five issues of this design are often overlooked. My two favorite dates of this type are the 1821 and the 1826/5.

There are so many early half eagles that I feel are undervalued that instead of listing them by date and discussing them, I'm going to focus on "best value grades" instead.

For circulated coins, I like AU55 and AU58 grades. An early half eagle graded AU55 to AU58 is going to show minimal wear and have a decent amount of remaining luster. There isn't a huge price spread between an AU50 and an AU58 common date early half eagle (the spread right now is a few thousand dollars at most) and if you are collecting half eagles by type, it makes sense to me to go for an AU55 or AU58.

In the Uncircuated grades, I tend to shy away from MS60 and MS61 coins (which are often "rubby") and stick with MS62's which, for the most part, are actually "new."

For type collectors with higher budgets, a nice MS64 early half eagle typically makes more sense to me than an MS65 at multiples of the price. The last few common date early half eagles that I have sold in MS64CAC have been nicer than some of the low-end MS65 non-CAC coins that I've seen offered at auction.

Since there are not many early eagles, there are few coins that I regard as undervalued. Among the common dates, I actually prefer the 1799 to the 1801 or the 1803 given its 18th century origin.

7. Let's Not Forget Classic Heads....

I mentioned at the beginning of this article that I wasn't going to overlook the Classic Head quarter eagles and half eagles. These designs were produced from 1834 to 1838 at the Philadelphia, Charlotte and Dahlonega and New Orleans mints. The branch mint issues include the 1838-C, 1839-C, 1839-D and 1839-O quarter eagles as well as the 1838-C and 1838-D half eagles.

The great thing about Classic Head gold is its affordability. As an example, I just sold an absolutely beautiful 1834 Classic Head half eagle graded AU55 by PCGS and approved by PCGS for just a touch over $2,000. Nice examples of most of the Philadelphia quarter eagles and half eagles of this type can be obtained for $2,000-4,000. Even Uncirculated examples, at least in MS60 to MS62, are not out of the price range of most early gold collectors.

I would suggest that if you are purchasing a Classic Head gold coin for type purposes that you be extremely selective. These coins are not rare and really nice examples can be found with patience. Pay a little extra for original coins with great color and, if possible, buy a slightly better date like an 1837 quarter eagle or an 1836 half eagle for just a small premium over the common 1834.

Classic Head gold can be collected in a number of different ways. You can buy just two coins and have a complete type set, or you can buy eleven coins and have complete year sets of both denominations. The addition of the branch mint issues will add some cost to a Classic Head collection, but these issues are still affordable in the EF40 to AU50 grade range.

8. Some Final Words

Its hard to convey in 2000~ words the ins and outs of collecting early gold coins, but hopefully this article will serve as motivation to become involved in an aspect of the hobby that I find fascinating. If you have any specific questions about early gold, please feel free to contact me via email at dwn@ont.com and I will do my best to answer them.

1804 $5.00 PCGS AU55 CAC

BD-7, R-4. Small 8 over Large 8 (also known as the Normal/Large 8 variety). From the standpoint of varieties, the 1804 half eagle contains some of the most visually impressive varieties in the entire early gold series. One of my favorites is the 1804 Small 8 over Large 8 which has among the most dramatic repunchings seen on any American coin ever produced. This variety is moderately scarce with an estimated 100-150 known, mostly in lower grades. This very lustrous example has attractive light yellowish-gold color with slightly deeper greenish hues at the obverse border. From the standpoint of wear (or lack of it) and "meat," this piece grades at least AU58 but it has been net graded down to an AU55 by PCGS due to a small scrape on the obverse from the cap up through the space between IB in LIBERTY. The reverse of this coin is especially choice and it grades at least MS61 on its own accord. Heritage 8/11: 7515, also graded AU55 by PCGS and approved by CAC, realized $12,650. This is one of six examples of this variety to have been approved by CAC in AU55 with nine better.

1798 Large 8, 13 Star Reverse $5.00 PCGS AU58 CAC

BD-4, High Rarity-4. This variety is easily recognized by the reverse cuds at ES in STATES and O in OF. There have actually been a fairly decent number of 1798 half eagles on the market in the last few months and with the exception of a few, I have been largely unimpressed. Most had been dipped at one time and most were liberally abraded. I like this coin because it is very original and because it is clean. I think it compares favorably to other 1798 half eagles that I've seen in MS61 holders and it would not look out of place in such a slab. The color of this coin is exceptional with splendid rich orange-gold that deepens to red at the left obverse and throughout much of the reverse. There is a slight amount of friction on the high spots and a number of adjustment marks (mint-made, of course) on the reverse that form a criss-cross pattern within the shield and the inner parts of the wings. As is typical of this variety, the centers are not as sharp as the borders and I have seen similar adjustment marks on a number of 1798 BD-4 half eagles. The originality and eye appeal of this coin make it very special and this is a wonderful piece of 18th century American gold.

1813 $5.00 PCGS MS63 CAC

BD-2. R-4. The Capped Head Left, Large Diameter type, struck from 1813 through 1829, contains some of the rarest gold issues ever produced by the United States mint. Only the 1813 is somewhat readily available in the lower Uncirculated grades and this makes it the ideal date for use in a type set of U.S. gold. This example is original and choice for the grade with very nice intense lemon-gold color on both sides. The strike is typical for the date with some softness on the border beads but good overall detail at the centers. There is some light marking in the obverse and reverse fields that limits the grade but the freshness and eye appeal of this coin make it as nice a Fat Head half eagle as you are likely to find in this grade and price range. The next grade up (in a PCGS holder and with a CAC sticker) will cost you over $55,000 if you can even find one!

CAC has given approval to ten examples in this grade and seven higher than this.

1806 Round 6 $5.00 PCGS MS62 CAC

This fresh to the market example has glowing yellow-gold color and excellent luster which is unusual for the date as many 1806 Round 6 half eagles are dull and satiny in texture. The strike is a bit better than usual for the variety with good detail at the centers and sharp denticles; the radial lines in the stars are, as usual, flat. There are a few scuffs in the obverse fields and a small mint-made area of roughness on the left side of the I in LIBERTY while the reverse is extremely clean and would grade at least MS63+ on its own accord. The last two PCGS MS62 examples of the 1806 Round 6 half eagle were Stack's Bowers 2011 ANA: 7660 and Heritage 2010 ANA: 3479 which brought $25,875 and $21,850 respectively. This coin has really exceptional eye appeal and it is the perfect grade for most type collectors as a PCGS MS63, if available, would cost $35,000+ and might not be all that much better than this.

How to Add Value to Your Early Gold Collection

You can make random purchases of early United States gold coins and, if you are lucky, you might acquire some nice pieces as time passes. But if you follow some of these suggestions and formulate a game-plan, my guess is that you will have a better grasp of what is (and what isn't) good value in the area of United States gold produced between 1795 and 1834. As someone who handles a bunch of early gold, I have established some personal parameters that guide nearly all of my purchases. I'd like to share them with you.

When it comes to early gold, most of my purchases revolve around the concept of value. Buy/sell spreads tend to be very tight in many early gold series. As an example, a nice mid to high range half eagle from the early 1800's might be worth $9,500 to buy and $10,000 to sell. I am always looking for the coin of this type that is still OK to buy at $9,500 but which can be sold, fairly, for $10,500 or even $11,000.

On certain very rare early gold issues, the concept of buy/sell spreads and value get thrown out the window and "rarity" becomes the key issue. How do you figure the price of an issue of which 30 exist in all grades and only two have traded at auction in the past five or six years? I'll answer this question and many others in the paragraphs below.

1. Buy Coins From the 18th Century. I know this seems somewhat simplistic but a 1799 eagle, while common, just seems "older" than an 1801 or 1803 (two comparable dates). The fact that it is an 18th century coin just gives it an inherent coolness factor that is lacking on most 19th century issues.

Many of the 18th century gold issues are quite rare and are out of the price range of most collectors. But there are others that are not priced at all that much more than comparable 19the century issues. This list includes the 1798 Large 8 13 Star reverse half eagle, the 1799 half eagle and, of course, the 1799 eagle. An issue that is harder to find in affordable grades but which is not extremely expensive is the 1798 quarter eagle.

2. Cherrypick Tough Varieties. Variety collecting of early gold remains in its infancy and it isn't likely to ever approach the status of Capped Bust half dollars or early Large Cents due to the high price per coin factor.

That said, there are some very rare die varieties that can be found in the half eagle and eagle series; often times for little or no premium. I'd suggest buying a copy of the Bass-Dannreuther book and becoming familiar with the multiple varieties of coins such as 1799 half eagles and eagles or 1806 half eagles.

At this point in time, there are no real premiums for any varieties that are R-5 or lower. Coins that are R-6 are probably worth around a 5-10% premium and this seems like good value for the collector. Coins that are R-7 are currently realizing a 10-20% premium. It is possible that an R-7 early half eagle or eagle could have a 50% premium sometime in the future, although I'd suggest to the collector that he not pay this sort of premium right now.

3. Buy in the Best Value Grades: AU58 and MS62. Depending on your budget and personal preferences, AU58 and MS62 are often the best value grades in early gold.

For common dates and rarities alike, it is hard to go wrong with a lustrous slider AU58. Many early gold coins age handsomely and just a little bit of wear on the high spots seems to add character. The price levels for common date early half eagles and eagles in AU58 also makes sense. These coins often don't sell for large premium over AU53's and AU55's. As an example, the current pricing for common Bust Right half eagle is around $9,500 for an AU53, $10,500 for an AU55, and $11,500 for an AU58. At a 20-25% premium over an AU53, an AU58 just seems like good value to me.

If you prefer Uncirculated coins, I suggest pieces graded MS62. In early gold, many coins in MS60 and MS61 holders are "rubby" and appear worn. MS62 coins are typically truly "new" and have good eye appeal, color and surfaces. The price differential between an MS62 Bust Right half eagle and an MS63 can be substantial; a 1799 eagle in MS62 will run you around $35,000-40,000 while an MS63 should cost $60,000-70,000. In many cases, there won't be $30,000 worth of difference, visually, between a coin in a 62 holder and one graded MS63.

4. Don't "Overbuy" Common Dates: If you are putting together a date run of early gold coins, it is easy to "overbuy" the common issues. I think this is a mistake.

What I mean is buying a coin like an 1806 Round Top 6 half eagle in MS65 as opposed to MS62, MS63 or even MS64. If you can find one, a Gem is going to cost you $125,000+. That doesn't seem like great value to me.

There are exceptions. If you are collecting early gold by type, looking for one really great coin makes sense. At the recent Chicago ANA, I saw no less than three MS64 1799 eagles and they were all exceptional coins. Yes, they were expensive (ranging in price from the mid 100's to the low 200's) but they made sense for the collector looking for one scintillating Capped Bust Right Heraldic Eagle ten dollar gold piece.

5. Buy CAC Coins I tend to like CAC approved early gold better than non-CAC coins. CAC does a good job distinguishing original, nice early gold from average quality, processed pieces and I think the 5-15% premium that these coins sell for is more than worth it for the average collector.

In the recent Stack's Bowers and Heritage sales, there were a lot of early gold coins, and the pieces with CAC stickers (or the ones that I thought would sticker if sent to CAC) generally brought higher prices than their sticker-less counterparts.

Good rule of thumb: unless you are extremely comfortable with your grading skills, stick with CAC approved early gold coins in most instances.

6. Look For Coins That Are Original. It is becoming harder and harder to find early gold coins, in all price ranges, that are original. In spite of this, the premiums for coins with lovely original color are not nearly as great as you might think they are.

Case in point: at the recent ANA show I sold a superb, beautifully toned 1805 half eagle in AU58 to a collector for $11,500. At the same show I wholesaled a totally unoriginal heavily processed 1803/2 for $10,500. The difference in quality between the two coins was astronomical, but at a $1,000 premium, the 1805 just seems like exceptionally good value.

As you view early gold more and more, you'll learn that certain issues are incredibly hard to find with original color and surfaces. As an example, there are hardly any 1796 No Stars quarter eagles left with rich natural color, and an AU50 example that was untouched and original should, in theory, be worth a 25-35+% premium over a typical schlocky AU50 coin.

7. Learn the Undervalued Dates. In all three denominations of early gold, there are dates that are undervalued. The savvy collector can take the time to learn them; or he can continue to the next paragraph and let me do the work for him...

In the quarter eagle series, the dates that I feel are undervalued include the 1798, 1806/4, 1826/5, and 1833.

The early half eagles that I find to be undervalued include the 1798 Small 8, 1799 Large Reverse Stars, 1800, and 1806 Pointed 6.

I don't think that at current levels any of the early eagles are undervalued but a case can be made that the 1797 Small Eagle and 1798 9+4 stars are both good values if you can find examples that are choice, original and priced anywhere near current published levels.

8. Buy Interesting Naked Eye Varieties. There are numerous interesting naked eye varieties in the various early gold series that do not necessarily command a premium but which have enough of a coolness factor that I think they are good value.

One that I can think of right off the back is the 1804 half eagle with a Small 8 punched over a Large 8. This variety sells for no premium over the 1804 Small 8 but if you have seen it in person, you know that it is really interesting.

Another variety that I find very interesting is the 1795 half eagle with the second S in STATES punched over a D. Its not rare but I will almost always buy one if I see it for sale because I like the variety so much.

I think that all early gold that is overdated falls into this category. While some "overdates" like the 1802/1 and 1826/5 quarter eagles have been debunked, others like the 1802/1 and 1803/2 half eagles are very impressive from a visual standpoint and carry no premium over other less interesting dates of this era.

9. Put Together Mini-Sets. If you are going to purchase a few different early gold coins, why not do a small thematic set?

The most obvious set is a three coin denominational group, including a quarter eagle, half eagle and eagle.

Or, you could do a year set. The years in which all three denominations were produced were 1796, 1797, 1798, and 1804.

A "first and last year" set would include quarter eagles dated 1796 and 1834; half eagles dated 1795 and 1834; and eagles dated 1795 and 1804.

Most people collect early gold more traditionally, choosing to either do date sets or type sets.

Collecting early gold is one of the most challenging and entertaining areas in all of American numismatics. It takes a pretty hefty checkbook to do it seriously, but collectors of average means can dabble and buy the occasional coin that is really special. Do you collect early gold? What are your "tricks of the trade?" Let me know what they are and let's begin an early gold discussion in the comment section of this article.

1805 $5.00 NGC AU55

BD-1, Rarity-3. . Perfect 1 in date; IT in UNITED close. I purchased this coin at the recent Baltimore show from a collector whose eye is, in my opinion, excellent and it had resided in his collection for a number of years. It is a splendid early half eagle that has great rich green-gold color that is accentuated by natural coppery hues. The obverse shows some light friction in the fields which has lightened the color; the reverse is evenly toned and choice. Both sides show a good, even strike and most of the details are up and bold with the exception of the radial lines in the obverse stars. There are no abrasions of note, no adjustment marks and the edges lack any bumps or bruises. Locating early half eagles in this grade/price range has never been more difficult and most of the pieces that I see offered for sale these days have been heavily processed and/or are very problematic.

What Do Original United States Gold Coins Look Like?

Around a year ago, I wrote a blog that discussed original 19th century United States gold coins and used photos of specific coins to illustrate the points I was attempting to make. This was one of the most popular blogs to ever appear on www.raregoldcoins.com and I was pleased to get the positive feedback it generated. At the recent FUN show, I was shown two collections of coins. One consisted of around two dozen Charlotte and Dahlonega coins while the other had around 30 early gold coins. All were graded by PCGS or NGC and in both instances the owner prefaced his show-and-tell by informing me that all the coins were sold to him by dealers who stressed their "originality."

Out of the 50 or so coins I looked at, around five were what I would describe as being "original." This made me realize that most collectors do not understand the concept of originality and that it would be a good time to dust off the old "how to tell originality" blog.

1. 1807 Bust Left $5.00 Graded AU55+ by PCGS

To me, this coin is just about the most perfect piece of lightly circulated early gold that you are likely to find. I think its an AU58 instead of an AU55+ but that's just splitting hairs; what can not be denied is this coin's exceptional color and overall originality.

There are a numbers of factors that make me believe that this piece is original. First is the depth and evenness of its color. Note the "age" of the color and how well it blends. Artificial color looks "newer" and never blends as well as old, mellow natural color. Secondly, note how the underlying luster is still undisturbed and in a perfect cartwheel pattern. This is most clear at the obverse border where there is considerable mint luster at the stars. Thirdly, note the absence of hairlines or other imperfections that might have been caused by a prior cleaning.

2. 1852-C $5.00 Graded AU53 by PCGS

I almost decided not to use this coin as an example. Its sort of like going to the gym, choosing the biggest lunkhead you can find and then holding him up as an example of a fit guy to a bunch of scrawny non-lifters. Just not fair, right?

The first sign that this coin is very original is the depth of its coloration. Note the very deep and very even hues that can be seen on the obverse and reverse. Coin doctors are never able to reproduce this deep green-gold hue and most artificial toning on gold tends to be more of a bright orange or slightly off-kilter red hue. Another sign of this coin's originality is the fact that the few marks on the surfaces are not shiny or bright. On artificially toned or processed coins, the chemical agents used to color the coins tend to break down over time and there is often discoloration or brightness within the recesses of the marks on the surfaces.

3. 1856-O $10 Graded AU53 by NGC

This attractive coin has a few things that lead me to believe that it is original. The first is its deep, even green-gold color. Note that the hues are consistent on the obverse and reverse. The second is that there is no "filminess" atop the surfaces that might be caused by it having been puttied. The third is the presence of dirt deposits in the protected areas of the obverse and reverse. Note around a number of the stars and within the reverse lettering: there are raised black dirt "chunks" which would quickly dissolve if this coin were dipped in a chemical solution or even put into a soap and water bath to lighten it.

4. 1833 Large Date $5.00 Graded MS63 by PCGS

The common theme so far in with these coins have been their deep, dark original coloration. But what about coins that are lighter in hue and higher in grade? Can a coin that is not dark still be original? In the case of this 1833 half eagle, a coin that I bought and sold at the 2011 FUN show, it certainly can. One of the first things of note about this coin is the fact that it is an old green label PCGS holder. This, of course, doesn't mean it is a guaranteed original coin. But what it does mean is that it was graded at least 15 or so years ago and nothing was placed on the surfaces by a coin doctor as a chemical or substance would have broken-down by now and become visible.

This coin is bright and vibrant but it isn't too bright or too vibrant. I'm not sure this makes sense to a new collector but long-term collectors will immediately realize the difference between a coin that is naturally bright and one that has been brightened. The luster on this coin is completely undisturbed and, as is typical for half eagles from this era, it has a sort of "pillowy" texture. Also, note that the color is a rich light yellow and green-gold. This is characteristic of original Fat Head eagles and this is something that is not seen much, anymore, on the surviving coins from this era.

5. 1814/3 $5.00 Graded MS62 by NGC

This is a tricky coin and one that would probably cause the greatest amount of dissent if I showed it to a number of experts. As you can see from the photos, it is very richly toned, in fiery reddish-gold hues. Red is often a color on early gold that has been applied. But in the case of this coin, the hue and intensity of the red is "right" and it has, to the best of my knowledge, never been duplicated by coin doctors. You can also see that the color lies nicely on the surfaces and is variegated with a number of different hues. Artificial color is more monochromatic and does not have the subtle gradations that a natural piece like this displays.

A few other facts about this coin are compelling. First, it is interesting to note that I have handled at least three 1814/3 half eagles in Uncirculated that have had reasonably similar intense reddish-based color. Having seen similar colors on other examples makes me even more certain that the color is genuine. And, the coin is housed in a very old NGC "fatty" holder which means that it was graded nearly two decades ago. If this color wasn't real, it wouldn't look so good after two decades in an NGC holder.

6. 1880 $20.00 Graded PR63 by NGC

Brilliant Proof Liberty Head gold coinage is almost never seen anymore. Most examples have been dipped and/or conserved in an attempt to generate higher grades from the third-party services and in order to receive Ultra Cameo designations.

In the 2011 FUN auction, Heritage sold a number of superb quality Proof gold coins from the Miller collection that were notable for having natural coloration. These coins were purchased in the 1970's and 1980's; back when collectors knew what original proof gold looked like and it was appreciated for what it was. This 1880 double eagle was from that sale and collection.

There are a few things that immediately show this coin is original. As simplistic as this sounds, the first is that it isn't blindingly brilliant. Note, instead, how there is rich copper-orange toning which deepens towards the borders. Also, there is a copper spot on the reverse between the two L's in DOLLARS. Proof gold that has been conserved doesn't have these spots. Finally, there is an even natural "haziness" atop the surfaces that exists on original Proof gold. Note that I did not say "filminess" as in "this coin has been puttied and is now filmy."

Hopefully, this blog has been helpful. There is, of course, no substitute for seeing original coins live and in person but in the absence of doing this, these images and descriptions should be a step in the right direction.